Bogbas

It's just getting silly now. I'm taking this with a pinch of salt. link It's a long article so here's a summary on a couple of things. - Digital output on your pc's soundcard/chip is disabled when hd content is played on vista. - The component output of your graphics card is disabled when playing hd content. - Or the quality of those are reduced. The above will render a user's hd home theater setup useless (if the hdtv or the video projector doesn't have HDCP) if one is to use vista as the os of one's home theater pc and wants to watch hd content. - Say goodbye to unified drivers (catalyst/detonator/forceware) And hello to one individual driver for every device. - Devices cease to function because the driver is revoked by microsoft. - Hardware costs will rise. Just because devices have to be done as microsoft wants them to be done. if it's true though this just means more problems to the home user.

Opening pdf files usually take pretty long if you're using adobe's reader. Even with a reasonably powerful PC. I found this alternative: http://www.foxitsoftware.com/pdf/rd_intro.php It opens pdf's a lot faster than adobe reader. I recommend replacing it with this.

Was goomba the norwegian who complained about army's imacs?

I'm not so sure about this, but if a 16th note means 1/16th of a note, then it would be a note that lasts for 1/4th of a second at 240bpm. Not so sure that I got it right though. Last time I studied music was 7-10 years ago.

Well this comes a bit late. But here goes: Wireless connections just lag more than a wired one. There's more packet loss, which doesn't show if you browse the web or play a slow-paced game online. But when you play fps's and other games that require fast actions, you'll notice it.

Could be also that the power supply can't output enough power. So now you should test it by unplugging everything, and just leaving the cpu and a single memory module (and maybe the graphics card). Then boot that up and if all goes well, start plugging everything back one at a time. That way you should get some idea on what is causing it.

The only thing that I use is a clipper (<-- is that the right term for the machine that cuts hair?) My hair is getting a bit too long now. Need to shorten/remove it.

I liked them better when they were like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjSQBLQEYnU imo this stealth crap is getting old. The old movies sucked, and this isn't really looking very promising either.

There's the play-->filters-->'your capture card's name here'--> properties. On default the video loads on 720*288 which is pretty flat. I choose 720*576 from a drop-down menu. Usually I just input this dshow:// :dshow-vdev="" :dshow-adev="" :dshow-size="" :dshow-caching=0 :dshow-chroma="" :dshow-fps=59.000000 :dshow-config :no-dshow-tuner :dshow-tuner-channel=0 :dshow-tuner-country=0 :dshow-tuner-input=0 :dshow-video-input=-1 :dshow-audio-input=-1 :dshow-video-output=-1 :dshow-audio-output=-1 to VLC. It pops up a couple of device settings dialogs, and on one of those there's the resolution option. Most of the settings above are useless, but I haven't had the time to tidy it up. But one setting that definitely matters is :dshow-caching=0 Without it the video output lags 1/5 of a second. MPC does have nice shader effects to deinterlace and sharpen the image. But I find VLC easier and quicker to set up.

I think this needs a nerdy quote: "Only wimps use tape backup: real men just upload their important stuff on ftp, and let the rest of the world mirror it." - Linus Torvalds

I tried that dscaler and the video quality was really fugly. Can't the card use directshow? Vlc and media player classic produces better quality on both of my cards(GPU's composite-in and a tuner cards composite-in). Here's a pic from media player classic: And here's why it's not good to run PAL60 on composite: It's a bit smoother, but the colors look terrible. If you want to know how those look in fullscreen just save the pics and upscale them to your monitors resolution in photoshop or similar. Note that the pictures themselves are (almost...)4:3 as my monitor isn't widescreen.

You get the speakers by buying them separately. To get the best sound you'd need to buy 5 speakers of the same model. The subwoofer is optional (if the main speakers are big enough)but it does give a nice punch to explosions and such. And remember, there's three stages of bass 1st: too little 2nd: there could be more... 3rd: a shitload of it on reserve (^ taken from a humoristic faq of which url I can't remember right now...)But this solutions requires a lot of money. The easy way: http://www.logitech.com/index.cfm/products/details/GB/EN,CRID=2177,CONTENTID=9486

This is the same for windows pc's http://wiihacks.blogspot.com/2006/12/howto-use-wii-mote-in-windows-as-your.html here's a video of a guy playing half-life 2 with the wiimote. And for macs the mouse functionality has apparently been done Nice info on the subjects: http://www.wiili.org Edit: I wonder if there'll be homebrew games made for the PC/mac that uses the wiimote. From the videos I've seen it's pretty easy to get the wiimote to work with your PC/mac. Basically you just need a bluetooth adapter to use the wiimote. No need for any adapters and such which you'd need to use NES/SNES/N64/GC controllers on the pc.

I was playing the 4th level when this happened. He just floats there... I can move him a bit to both sides. I guess they didn't really test the game much

http://screwattack.com/AngryNerdMain.html It made me realize how easy today's games are. It took me 9 years to get to the last level of top gun on the nes. And 10 to actually beat it. But the reviews are hilarious. Brings back memories. Especially TMNT, double dragon and Top gun. edit: contains harsh language

It might be on yours too. Do you use a router that has multiple pc's/consoles connected to it? Generally to get the best performance in online games that require fast actions (fps/sports) you should make sure that the device that you're playing on is the only device using the internet connection.

That was the easiest level yet. Got all the 24 flakes on first try...

Nero would give you the option to create a multisession disk. Which allows file to be added later. You set it when it asks for the write speed etc. Windows's built in burner mostly sucks. I think I have never got it working, even though nero(express) would work fine. And some LG burners have firmware incompatible with win xp SP2. But there's a tool to upgrade the firmware available somewhere.

Argh... Why did they change the socket? It has been the same since SNES. I blame component support :horse:

The problem would be with the sync signals. You need to apply some electronics to get it working on all monitors.

You need something that separates the left and right audio channels from the RGB cable. For example you would connect the GC to one of these: http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/full/mk36.jpg and use a scart-to-scart cable to connect your tv to it. And then plug the rca-to-3.5 between that box and the logitechs unit. And you need to set that logitech to movie mode apparently... And don't forget to enable surround option in the game's sound options. The TV's audio out should also work, but if it doesn't I guess that it passes the signal through some kind of filter that screws up the pro logic II encoding.

This has been asked in the previous pages, but I didn't find a straight answer. Can you use the GC's RGB cable with the wii? I'm 99% sure that you can, but I just want to be sure...

Congratulations, next time you'll be taking a test on one of these, right?

I suggest you start with free quake-based games. Enemy territory and nexuiz, for example. If you don't like the speed/unrealism, you could try TC:E mod for ET. It's more like cs(s) but free. But as Jordan said, it depends on what kind of FPS's you like.

I haven't researched this, but if the wii outputs progressive scan, and your tv doesn't support it, do you get just a black screen?