Bogbas

Yes. I have one for GC and it does wonders to the picture. Quick search around the net showed that D-terminal is a japanese standard. So no. You need the vga box, or if you're handy you can make one yourself. I just need to design a pcb for mine. And find a monitor that can sync to composite sync... And find a place to make the pcb... so it probably will never get done actually For that you need to consult the tv's manual. I know they're scary, especially if translated. But usually they contain useful info. Usually EXT1 has RGB (and EXT2 s-video) Well they're not that hard. Just don't try to learn them all at once.

The antivirus and firewall sections needs more software. And does zonealarm work with the nintendo wifi dongle? Few months ago it didn't. Anyhow, firewalls: Sunbelt kerio personal firewall: http://www.sunbelt-software.com/Kerio-Download.cfm It has 30 day trial period, after which it shuts down some features. Like web- filtering and ad blocking. They're mostly useless, the only feature that I would've liked to have after 30 days is gateway mode. Jetico v 1.0 freeware http://www.jetico.com/index.htm#/jpfirewall.htm It's a resource friendly and small firewall. But it's a total bitch to configure. It's very effective though. I wouldn't recommend it unless you know pretty much about computers and networks. Comodo http://www.personalfirewall.comodo.com/ I don't know much about this. It requires a free registration. But it's quite good from what I've heard. For windows users: quicktime and real alternative http://www.free-codecs.com/download/QuickTime_Alternative.htm http://www.free-codecs.com/download/Real_Alternative.htm Real alternative is much better than realplayer. And the official quicktime has broken my system more than once (thanks a lot, apple! ) And I would put vlc as the recommended video player. Codec packs usually cause more problems than they solve. CCCP looks ok, but it's for mainly anime? VLC is fine if one's just viewing video's. For encoding one'd need to install the needed codec. Antivirus AVG free 7.5 http://free.grisoft.com/

So just be sure to get one that has it. Most of current craphics cards have s-video out.

On the PC you need an s-video output. What graphics card do you have?

Look for other similar products from, for example, pinnacle or hauppage. I'm pretty sure they have some mac compatible products. You might be able to get a device that you need for less money. You just need one that has s-video in or composite in. I don't know if those devices has similar lag as my video card's inputs have. It makes any games that requires fast actions pretty hard to play.

It would help if you told what kind of tv you have. Is it an old crt or new HDTV or similar? edit: this would do if the tv has scart: http://www.cableuniverse.co.uk/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1198&currency=GBP Thank shorty for that, as I stole that link from his post on the meaningless post thread

Yeah those would be the best option. They do cost more than a high tolerance ones, but I don't think that it should be much of a problem.

You need an amp that can decode the pro logic II signal from the two audio channels. Actually an older amp that only supports pro logic should also work. The effect isn't as nice though. And of course the 5 speakers

Apparently the tolerance isn't marked on electrolytic capacitors... That might be mentioned in the package that they're kept. It's just the percentage of how much the actual farad count can differ from the said farad count. E.g a 100µF capacitor with 10% tolerance can be anything from 90µF to 110µF. So I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Bowser's my favourite. Even though I play better with marth or roy... But it doesn't matter as I'll lose with anybody when I play against my little brother.

I think that there's also the tolerance. But yeah, that should do the trick. And there might something else that has gotten fried on the mobo as well. You'll be forfeiting any warranty that the board might have though and there's always the risk of damaging the mobo even more. But if you're confident that you can do it, then go for it. But don't blame me if something goes wrong

Capacitors shouldn't really get hot even when they're connected to a live circuit. The capacitor might have actually shorted itself. If the mobo is still under warranty, I'd suggest you get it replaced. I had some problems with new mobos not booting because they now use 24pin connectors, not the old 20pin one. But I found that just plugging the 4pin connector to it's place and leaving the additional 4pins on the 24pin connector not connected works. The most extreme solution would be to remove the capacitor and solder a new capacitor to the mobo. But you'd need to be sure that the capacitor is exactly like the old one: capacitance, voltage, tolerance etc. Or it could start doing some odd stuff.

You need to have that 4pin plug plugged in too. In the picture there's nothing there... And you need to plug the power buttons wires to the mobo as well, or did you just remove them to get the picture? The wire is one of those colored ones in the bottom right. Can't remember the color though. Consult the mobo's manual on where to plug it. And do not short the capacitor, that would most probably fry something. And a blown up capacitor smells really bad.

I have known this for a while, I made a post about it in the wii hardware discussion thread in may. http://www.n-europe.com/forum/showthread.php?p=145374#post145374 To answer to the first post: Yes it can be done, and it's easy to do. The sensor bar just contains few IR leds. I'd only need to find out a couple of things about the leds. The voltage they need to start emitting infrared, and how much current they can handle. With those it's easy to calculate the resistor's value that will be used with the power source. And then there's only the fun part left: the soldering

That's exactly why you need the space for the swap file I think there might also be some differences on what filesystem is used (fat or NTFS). I've also read that keeping a fixed- size swap file is better than having a dynamic one. I haven't noticed any performance differences though.

To help with the RAM issue: Only applications that should start when windows starts are antivirus- and firewall software. Shutdown winamp agent, msn messenger and similar. You can start them manually if you need to. Itunes is a bitch though as it loads the itunes service and if you remove it from startup it'll add itself there the next time you open itunes. Not sure what you mean by this? It's obvious that the laptop can't handle running all of those applications he mentioned in the 1st post at once. But just installing software doesn't make the pc slow. As long as there's plenty of room for the swap file, all should be well.

Unfortunately nowadays even legitimate software has spy/malware (Starforce or sony's rootkit anyone?) common sense is your best friend here. I think most big pc manufacturers give a restoration disk with your new pc. It usually formats and reinstalls the OS+ every application that came with the PC. It's like resetting the laptop to the point which it was purchased. So that would be the easiest option as CompSci said.

I don't know if I'm more worried about the kid's reaction or the thing that his dad did to him. Either way, I blame the parents.

USB dongles usually have pretty poor ranges. I'd recommend trying a PCI- card that has it's own antenna. And with an antenna remember that if the router's antenna is vertical your pc's wlan adaptor's antenna should also be. I don't think that the pci cards are really expensive. 30-40€ here on average (280-330 NOK) Boosting the signal with different kinds of antennae is an art of itself. How would that work on an USB stick I don't know. Reminds me of this http://www.oreillynet.com/cs/user/view/wlg/448 probably illegal, but what isn't nowadays But I do recommend the PCI card as you can, in most cases, switch the antenna if you need one with higher gain.

And for the future disable the ability to change the router's settings from a wirelessly connected pc. And enable the strongest possible encryption on the router+pc's.

Check out the manufacturer's website and/or the manual on how to perform a full reset. It usually involves keeping the reset button pushed for some period of time and connecting/disconnecting the mains.

erm... None? But if you really think that it's a good idea, I'd go for the ultimate. Every other versions have features ripped off. Though you might also want to consider the home premium. But I'd still stick to xp pro.

I'll soon be 21. I think that I first joined C-E in 2001 before the cube was launched. And as much I'd like to deny it now, I was a fanboy... I wasn't really active back then. But I posted a few times. This forum was a bit of on/off thing because I had dial-up.

http://audacity.sourceforge.net/

It's the official supplier of Nintendo products in Norway, Sweden, Denmark (Iceland?) They localise the game manuals + health warning papers. And it's needed because technically we're (scandinavia, Iceland and Finland) not part of NOE.