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My Stegadon


EEVILMURRAY

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Since the How Was Your Day Thread raped from our lives. I shall have to showcase my newly painted model here.

 

Took me around 2 weeks to sort out finally. The model comes with so much shizzle for varied combinations and it took the length of two movies to finally sort everything out before painting.

 

The images may be a fair bit tiny for some computers. I need a new camera. Some images brought to you by my One-Cheek-Pika.

 

StegadonNew003.jpg

 

Stegadon014.jpg

 

StegadonNew005.jpg

 

StegadonNew006.jpg

 

 

These two last shots are so you can see the weird dead heads on the sides. You may notice in the last there is a Triforce looking piece, which inspired me to give the head the colours of Ganondorf.

StegadonNew007.jpg

 

StegadonNew008.jpg

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Muchos thanks gringos

Did you take steroids on something? Amazing cracker.

Haha, not steroids, only the drug known as "pr0" which my body makes itself.

 

I feel my next project will be this:

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod860020a

 

And try to remix it as much as possible, since I won't be gaming with it, I don't have to make it so it aligns to one of the certain Chaos Daemon images.

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That looks...really good! No idea what a "professional" one would look like, but that looks professional to me. Really nice application of paint, and it all looks "right". :)

 

The only Warhammer I ever had where 2 packs of Wytches. Or Wychs. Or whatever they were. I loved them. But then I traded both packs (decently but not well) painted for Pokemon Blue!

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That's an excellent play-quality miniature!

It looks very clean, even if it seems to me you've brushed some details.

 

If I might give you some advice: Do give a bit more thought to the bases. You don't need to make it a diorama, but especially unpainted sand or stones clash with a painted miniature. So, think about covering the base with sand before using the primer on it. You can then brush it in several steps to your hearts liking. I'd be a bit less generous with the static grass, too.

 

One more thing about the gold parts: It's quite a nice effect, if you highlight the edges with a mixture of that gold color and some "Mithril Silver". It's tedious and requires a good brush and a steady hand, but it should be worth it. ;)

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Dude, that is fucking badass. I had a go at painting some Warhammer again recently. Damn hobby is a money black hole, but the display pieces that result are stunning. Seeing this makes me want to get back into painting again, augh. Curse you. Curse you and all the Halflings.

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If I might give you some advice: Do give a bit more thought to the bases. You don't need to make it a diorama, but especially unpainted sand or stones clash with a painted miniature. So, think about covering the base with sand before using the primer on it. You can then brush it in several steps to your hearts liking. I'd be a bit less generous with the static grass, too.

To be fair that's the most detailed base I've ever done. Mainly I've just used tyhe static grass flock and left it. But with this I remembered I got some lil rocks from a purchase a while back and thought I'd use it. I didn't paint it true but I did give it a wash ¬_¬ Which is my preferred method over highlighting, as I either do too much or not enough. Which pisses me off as I'm sure I'm missing a tactic use by the pro's.

One more thing about the gold parts: It's quite a nice effect, if you highlight the edges with a mixture of that gold color and some "Mithril Silver". It's tedious and requires a good brush and a steady hand, but it should be worth it. ;)

I'm sure I could pull that off. But this is where the term highlight confuses me. Sometimes it means the "get some on your brush and fap around until you don't have much. Other times it means "get some on a small brush and put a fair-yet small amount on the edges". I know you're referring to the latter but it's still a point. I have some of the colour in the proper old school thin "bottles" (Before they had the bullshit small screw lids [which dry the paint up well quick, although I have a few shades surviving by the skin of their teeth] then a flippy-esque lid), but I've always hated Mithril Silver, mainly because when I've used it, it's done fuck all. I see what you're saying about the highlights, which is normally why I use washes.

 

Tomorrow, if you'd like I can show you my High Elf Dragon. There are some images already online, but recently I've been working on a base. Before I was going to simply slam on the static grass since the model itself came with a fair few items to put on the base. After inspiration from my girlfriend I've decided to go for a water effect. I painted the base Enchanted Blue and added a layer of PVA glue, it looked too bright. I spashed about some Necron Abyss to darken it up, using the 'waterproof' effect of the PVA to a water-ish advantage. Then another layer of PVA. Didn't look that great but much better than the bright blue. Added another layer of PVA since and it looks alright. But I'm going to wait until daylight before I commit to that statement properly. I probably see myself adding a few more dabs of Necron Abyss then maybe 1-2, maybe 3 layers of PVA glue on top, it's looking alright.

Edited by EEVILMURRAY
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Which is my preferred method over highlighting, as I either do too much or not enough. Which pisses me off as I'm sure I'm missing a tactic use by the pro's.

There are techniques that rely only on one or the other (like dipping), but none of them are fit for showcase or very high quality gaming models. You have to do both.

 

By painting shadows and highlights you basically compensate that the shadows and highlights on the model's details aren't as pronounced, as we would expect them to be, if the model was in 1:1 scale. If you look at objects in the light you will see that the edges appear lighter and parts where shadows are cast on appear darker. By only applying washes you only get the shadows, but not the highlights. Over exaggerating highlights on edges can be a good idea, when you want details to be distinguishable from some distance. That's exactly the problem with unpainted sand or rocks (one layer of wash doesn't count ;) ).

 

But this is where the term highlight confuses me. Sometimes it means the "get some on your brush and fap around until you don't have much. Other times it means "get some on a small brush and put a fair-yet small amount on the edges".

Fapping around with the brush on some cloth until there's only very few color left and than brushing the model is called drybrushing. It's ok for details like fur or feathers if you're careful. For large parts with very many small and close details like that, which have to be in one color, this can even be a valid technique for high quality models. For everything else, you should avoid it wherever possible, when you don't have a whole army to paint. ;)

 

Also, you will want to have a look at Vallejo colors (model paints), if you don't know them yet and if you've had enough of the Citadel one's. They're marginally cheaper and require some getting used to, but they won't dry up that quickly and are on par in terms of quality.

 

Use Mithril Silver! It's an amazing "color" for highlighting metallic parts, not for painting them completely. Have a look at the edges of this model's metallic parts. Without Mithril Silver you wouldn't be able to distinguish half the details from the rest.

 

So, where is that dragon? ^^

Edited by Burny
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